This is what I found and have concluded on the subject. I know this is an old thread, and many may have found all the answers they're looking for when it comes to the product, but the "Cast Iron Issue" is still of interest to me, especially with a couple of restoration jobs coming up. I've done some nice measuring tools and fixtures without any ill effects. If I put something sensitive in it, I use fairly fresh liquid and check it every 2 hours. This is a pretty extreme case though, and I was deliberately testing what it would do. I had to pull it out every other day and brush off the black deposit from the barnacles to get the Evaporust to resume working. These photo are of a water pump that was really thick with barnacles inside. I've also noticed a dark deposit on top of thick rust barnacles that stops the process.
I have noticed that old darkened Evaporust will leave a dark stain on just about any steel if left in long enough, and the higher carbon content of the steel the sooner it will appear, even with fairly fresh Evaporust. I've soaked a piece of cast iron for a long time without visual damage, but it wasn't real pretty to begin with so maybe I wouldn't have noticed. The interface between Evaporust and air seems to remove the metal, I don't know what that effect is called, but I've never had metal removed from submerged steel. Thanks for the information you provided on your site, and thanks again for your reply.Black Oxide is Iron Oxide, just like rust, and that's what Evaporust dissolves, so it's instantly gone. I'm going to keep my eyes open and maybe I'll come across something. I've also seen some washtubs, but they are mostly all galvanized steel and also too short (about 11"). So, I'm not sure right now what the best solution is. That size seems a little bit big, though, considering it sounds like you get the most efficient operation if the pan and the anode are as close together as possible without touching. Right now, I have my dad looking for an extra 55 gallon steel drum where he works. It just seems simpler, but I was a little concerned about having the pot sitting out with a positive charge going to it, even if it is only 12v.
I actually saw the website you linked to, which gave me the idea of using a steel container as the anode. They're expensive though, and I didn't imagine investing too much just to have a little fun in the back yard with some old cast iron. I haven't been able to find a watertight steel container large enough, but there are some kitchen grade steel stockpots that would work (80-100 quarts). Thanks again for taking the time to share your methods with us! I'll go find a BKF as you recommended & see if it and steel scrubbies can magically turn mine into the beautiful pans you show sitting on your counter. But even at their best, my skillets only looked about as good as your last picsw of it hanging in your workshop the skillets are dull, dark and uneven. Now I need to go find some plate steel instead of using a piece of rebar as I was first told.īut even after several days, and many hours at 50 amps, I was still left with picking many flakes off, as you described. Thanks for taking the time to document your methods & thots I think you've pointed out some of the things I've been doing wrong.
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To experiment & learn how to do it, I used a couple of the smaller skillets, but the results were. I first read about electrolysis on a different website. I've recently bought a couple nice larger pieces to fry fish. I already had several small skillets I'd somehow accumulated over the years that I occasionally use for cooking breakfast. I've recently become interested in many of the things my grandparents did, & cast iron cookware is one of them.
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